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Today, most Yucatecans cook the traditional roasted pig, cochinita pibil, in a stove oven instead of stone-lined pits. The first time I was in Yucatán, I was determined to find the real thing. My quest led me to the village of Tixkokob, where I met Silvio and Angelica Campos. Like his father before him, Silvio still prepares the pork in the same fashion as his ancestors. Quickly and reverently he slaughters a young pig. After cleaning it, he spreads the meat with his own recado, a mixture of bitter orange juice, herbs and achiote paste. He then wraps the meat in freshly cut banana leaves, places it into a deep pit filled with white-hot coals, covers it with earth, and allows it to steam overnight. The next day when the pit is opened and the meat brought forth, the aromas and tastes combine into one of the most memorable meals anyone has ever experienced.
Black beans are a natural and almost essential anytime cochinita pibil is served. The tortillas can be spread with very smooth well-fried black beans and layered with shredded pork and Red Onion Garnish for a traditional Yucatecan taco.
Silvio Campos preparing his special ribs with achiote paste.
Join us on our February 4-12, 2006 trip to the Yucatán with Silvio, Chef Rick Bayless from Frontera Grill in Chicago, IL and Chef Ricardo Munoz from Mexico City.
Puncture the meat on all sides with the point of a sharp knife and place it in a large glass or other noncorrosive bowl or pan.
Mix together the juices, achiote paste, and garlic and 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt. Pour all but 2 tablespoons of the mixture over the pork, rubbing it in well so that the surface is saturated. For best results, cover and refrigerate at least 1 day in advance. The meat should be no less than 6 hours in the marinade. Cover the remaining juice mixture and store in the refrigerator.
When ready to cook the meat, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Divide the banana leaves into 2 parts, removing the thick rib down the center. Cut into manageable lengths, about 18 inches long. Tear off about a dozen 1/2- by 18-inch strips to use as ties. Lay out half of the banana leaves, shiny side up, and rub with oil. Put the pork in the center of the leaves (the meat may have to be cut in smaller pieces to fit the pan). Place a layer of onion slices and sprinkle with the remaining marinade. Cover with more banana leaves, folding the edges together to seal. Tie the package of pork with the banana leaf strips.
Place the meat in a large Dutch oven, pour 1 cup of water around the meat, and cover tightly. Or place in a foil-lined baking pan, add the water, and seal with another layer of foil on top. Bake for 3-4 hours, unti the meat is so tender that it is almost falling apart or is easily broken up with a fork. (Meat that has been cut into smaller pieces will require less cooking time.)
Carefully remove the leaf- or foil-wrapped pork from the pot to a large baking pan or platter. Unwrap and discard the onion and the banana leaves or foil covering. Pour any juice remaining in the pot into a small bowl and skim off as much fat as possible.
Slice or shred the meat when it is cool enough to touch and put into a medium-size serving dish. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and moisten with a drizzle of the meat juices. Decorate the plate with the sliced chiles and red onion garnish.
Red Onion Garnish makes a good addition to tortas and tostadas and as a relish with simple fish and chicken dishes. And it is a necessity with Roast Pork Yucatecan-Style.
Place the onions in a heavy heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Soak for 2-3 minutes, or just long enough so they lose some of their crispness but do not become soft. Drain well. Add the salt, pepper, oregano, and lemon juice.
Create a well in the center of the sliced onions, place the chiles in the well, and cover with some of the other onions, Allow to steep for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Covered and refrigerated, the onions will last for several weeks and will lose some of their crunchiness only at the end.
Before serving, take out the chiles and put them on top of the onions as a decoration. Only the foolhardy should try to eat them.
These recipes are reprinted from Cocina de la Familia, by Marilyn Taused with Miguel Ravago, Simon & Schuster, 1997
all material copyright 2001-2008 by
Marilyn
Tausend.
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